COACH SS17 Fur
“One thing a girl loves more than a bad boy is a self-aware bad boy.”
S.A. Tawks, Misadventurous.
But Vevers’ collection does not bring groundbreaking work to the catwalk. This designer’s magic becomes obvious when classic garments such as baseball jackets, parkas and embellished souvenir jackets become more approachable pieces; old friends that tell us stories of our high school, our rebellious years of teenagers and do not make us feel nostalgic. On the contrary, they bring a mischievous smile to our faces. Lines from The Breakfast Club resonate in our ears as we look at this collection and remind us of the eternal concerns we had as teenagers: “My God are we gonna be like our parents?” and “When you grow up your heart dies”. The phrases seem to echo incessantly in our minds, guiding us through our personal history on how we came to terms with the harsh realities of adult life. And it makes you stop wondering why Coach’s best-selling jacket is a beaten-up, beatnik jacket, and their second best seller being a “really cool” biker jacket (Vevers would say).
The whole collection invites you to remember that, when a teenager, even with a few stumbles and falls you always have the option to run away from it all. We are free and allowed to be free, it is our turn to do so and the only chance life gives us to be over the top, fearless; some sort of character from Coppola’s teen epic “The Outsiders”. Of course we would not be able to achieve one of these magical moments of high hormonal, teenage years utopia if Vevers wouldn’t have included illustrations ramped up by artist Gary Baseman, fur and studs. Those googly eyes on bloody stalks, or the cowboy with a jet pack on western shirts have been drawn by the artist directly on our new, best high school friends. The fur adds the softness and glamour our parents prayed for us to intent in our younger years and the studs, increase the insubordinate punk feeling we haven’t felt for a while.
Everything was referenced on this catwalk, from New York punk to biker gangs and beatniks. As a result, the collection was crammed with deep appeal to Londoners who have always looked to the rebellious streak of American as a means to influence their style. The garments proved to be a delight to those who favour their luxury with a youthful and somewhat utilitarian edge. So it was not surprise to see Kate Moss in the first row waiting for the next high-fashion collection that looks as if it was destined to be accessorised with a packet of Marlboro Lights.
And a series of slogan inscribed tote bags and a collection of silky printed souvenir jackets (both promising to become the new Coach signature pieces) also looked set to charm customers on both sides of the Atlantic.