Haute Acorn: Throwback to NYFW 2016 RTW

  • Haute Acorn NYFW 2016 Ready to Wear

Finally NYFW has arrived.

This will be a month dedicated to fashion, starting with NY, continue in London and Milan and ending with haute couture show in Paris .

As Fashion Month has just started, we are making a through back to some ”can’t miss” fur creations from last year’s New York Fashion Week fall.

The Opening Ceremony.

The set filled with space-mobiles, they turned out to be part of the Sci-Fi inspirations that included T-shirts sporting designs in a collaboration with Syd Mead, the artist behind the images of the movie Star Trek. Designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have a grip on 21st-century modernism as it segued into futurism. Hence the digital colours, tactile fabrics and an overall sense that tomorrow has arrived.

The main theme was further established with an iridescent puff jacket paired with neon orange tron sunglasses, a matching crocodile-stamped velvet jacket and mini skirt styled with over-the-knee-boots in the same pattern.

The front-row fans that got a chance to admire the futuristic, yet modern pieces up close included Ricci, Rosario Dawson, Orange Is the New Black co-stars Dascha Polanco and Natasha Lyonne, and Jaden Smith and girlfriend Sarah Synde.

The Revolution behind New York Fashion Week

The hottest runway trend that basically started last year is instant shopping, as designers from HBA’s Shayne Oliver to Michael Kors turned their catwalks into a living and breathing shop window. . “Our customer doesn’t think in terms of seasons, anyway,” said Kors at a press conference before his catwalk show. “She just thinks about what works for her life.”

Many designers have begun to experiment with shoppable catwalks, and with the CFDA exploring a consumer-facing Fashion Week, too, it seems that serving both masters, the press and the shoppers, is going to become the norm.

After six months, many other brands start following this trend. On September 2016 Burberry announced that after the women’s wear season in New York (starting week), it would move to a see-now/buy-now collection model.

In a statement, Christopher Bailey Burberry’s chief executive and chief creative officer said:

“The changes we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for themselves. Our shows have been evolving to close this gap for some time. From livestreams to ordering straight from the runway to live social media campaigns, this is the latest step in a creative process that will continue to evolve.”

In other words, the show will become a big marketing and selling tool, not for stores or magazines, but for direct communication between the brand and the men or women who want to buy it.

That’s kind of revolutionary.

What we loved in NYFW 2016 Fall.

Dennis Basso

Basso’s women came out in silky, chantilly lace–trimmed slips and jumpsuits with his signature furs draped over their shoulders — almost as if they’d sleepwalked into a glamorous soiree.

There were also plenty of gowns, fur coats, cocktail dresses, and evening tops — structured bodices with exaggerated waists —in velvet, brocade, feathers, and beading. “Those materials might have been at one time for an older woman, but this is really for a young girl. She’s hot, sexy,” said Basso. That was absolutely true for a stunning crushed velvet gold slinky gown but maybe less so for an embroidered sequin strapless dress with fur trim. Other highlights included the groovy hand-embroidered coats with fur collars, which Basso’s younger clientele will gladly throw on with jeans.

Carolina Herrera

As she said backstage: “I want to see women looking beautiful, but in an actual way, not in the past. I’m very pro new technology. We should go to the future.”

True to her word, Herrera experimented with 3-D embroideries like leather florets, swakara fur pieces, feathered fur patched on cashmere and smaller paillettes that floated a few centimeters off the surface of dresses.

Sophie Theallet

Theallet last season was a kid in a fashion candy store, rampaging to suit her own pleasure in the luxury of clothes, and then, sated, sharing out the sweets with everyone else. In the midst of all the fun, there were some genuinely chic looks, where the attention to detail, workmanship and aesthetic mix clearly trumped the fanfare.

Michael Kors

Kors is one of the growing number of designers in NY and here in Europe to hop on the see now, buy now train.

“It’s always been about the muses,” he said during a preview. “In a strange way, they all kind of float through my head, they all kind of mash up together.” He ran off a litany of “theys”: Lee Radziwill, Diana Ross, Nan Kempner, Alexa Chung, Zendaya, Blake, women “unabashedly in love with looking fabulous.”

This show was all about function made special and chic — coats (and more coats), sweaters, pants and skirts, the regular trappings of getting dressed, only delightfully zhooshed up.

Marc Jacobs

Subtlety isn’t Marc Jacobs’s thing. The designer’s runway deliveres the kind of theatrics that season after season truly make it a show — and one of the most coveted seats at Fashion Week. For Fall ’16, Marc did what he does best, starting by enlisting models he knew the world would be crazy about: between them Kendall Jenner and Lady Gaga, looking gothic and doll-like for Marc’s dark Victorian-punk mashup.

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