Hockley London has been through a fantastic transformation since some years ago. Firstly through the talented hands of Frank Zilberkweit and his visionary approach to the trade and pursue of innovative fashion design. And later, by Yves Salomon, whose imaginative and forward thinking style to the business has invigorated and refreshed the brand’s collection. And, ladies and gentlemen, you can tell these two personalities have been around because Hockley is not only about tradition and evolution, it is also about customer service. Lovely and knowledgeable people work in this shop. They will guide you through their best selling pieces made of black mink, dyed Silver fox, mink with lace and sheared weasel (this beauty is affordable… and so soft!). That might be why their clientele ranges from young, trendy buyers to older generations that rather use something more classic. Parkas with leather or fabric happen to be very popular among Londoners and their chinchilla gillette a big temptation for tourist and visitors of the capital.
Some (if not most) of the monsters humanity envisages (youngsters and adults) tend to have some sort (or a lot) of animal in them. Why? (the Guru ponders…). Well, this lady believes that it is mainly because of what we have been historically and culturally fed with. By this I’m talking about myths, bedtime stories (yes, you know, the big bad wolf?), folklore.
Animals come and go, have appeared and disappeared from the planet because of lack of adaptability or because of weakness or fragility. True, we don’t help with our excesses but it is also true that nature behaves in this merciless way. Yet, we try to save them, learn from them, protect them, and use them as we continue looking in them a reflection of ourselves. Our history with animals appears to be intertwined with our own fears, powers and weaknesses. And who has caused all this interweaving of perceptions? Us! And how are we going to sort it out? Well, that’s one of the questions that arises when visiting this extraordinary exhibition from the Wellcome Trust: Making Nature, How we see animals?
I have always had a secret curiosity about Argentina. I find their people quite different to the rest of Latin America (in looks and in attitude). Sometimes European trades appear in them but still, they are charged with a fiery and bellicose spirit that comes only from those countries that have had to fight really hard for their independence and a sense of nationality (which, for this Guru, is one of the dealings that define Latinos). I find them endearing too. A big part of my family found their home there and irremediably fell in love with the melancholic but still modern city of Buenos Aires.
Jan Erik Carlson, former marketing director of Saga Furs gives an update on his ventures in the fur industry and introduces his new entrepreneurial idea.
The nordic fur innovator has recently established his Copenhagen based company, Carlson Advice – a creative consultancy operating with a network of the most innovative and experienced fur designers, furriers and technicians. The company specializes in bringing the leading creative and marketing minds of the fur world together in a freelance concept, that links cutting-edge innovation with bottom-line results.
Having worked for 20 years with design innovation for fur, marketing projects and business development on a global scale, he could see the on-going demand for creativity and business innovation in the fur trade.
A few years ago Andre Cavaco used to be a vegan and completely anti-fur. Now he designs and sells fur for a living.
Inspired by the media and PETA’s famous PR stunt “I’d Rather be Naked than Wear Fur” he was conned into thinking that animal welfare was not something that the fur trade cared about.
It all changed for Andre when he first got to feel the texture of fur. Ever since, he has described himself as a big fur lover. He actively runs a few social media profiles dedicated to fur fashion and tries to get himself involved into the business of fur. Watched by millions worldwide, it is safe to say he advocates fur in the best way possible.
He wants to inspire people and use his personal experience to change perceptions.
Currently based in Germany, Ernesto Hinojosa’s career has been growing from strength to strength. His talent has been evident and provided him with different awards such as the Saga Furs in 2011 and Young Designer of the Year Award in Finland in 2013 among others. He has produced a massive portfolio with a lot of fur in it but now it appears that he wants to continue experimenting with whatever offers him the challenge and opportunity to put at work his resourceful mind.
I look outside the plane window (after a flight full of tribulations) and I can see Madrid. This city appears to change every single time I visit it (the only thing that appears to be a constant is the good weather… woo hoo!). It’s vibrant, modern and so much fun (just like its people). Like the rest of the country, it has gone through really rough historical patches but Spaniards are not an easy crowd to beat. They are spirited and always come back with a better version of themselves, determined to enjoy life and create a paradise for themselves wherever they go.
To celebrate Women's Day, the Guru talks abouth the most outstanding pieces of Paris FW2017 from the most talented female designers.
It would be impossible for this Guru to even start imagining how these women feel and survive every single day but, I hope this little tribute reminds the luckiest of us that there’s still a lot of work to be done to release others most ill-fated. If not doing it by supporting charities and organisations to release women from slavery, abuse or harassment (among others… unfortunately) maybe we can do it by respecting and constantly supporting each other in our daily lives.
Fur and shearling once again took centre stage across all four leading AW17 fashion weeks, with an estimated 67% of collections overall featuring the natural materials. This compares with last year’s AW collections when fur was seen in around 70% of all collections. Fur use is holding up despite pressure from animal rights organisations.
From the oversized 70s throwback coats of Marc Jacobs to the soft longline pieces from Ryan Roche, New York Fashion Week saw 90 of 146 designers (62%) craft beautiful fur pieces. Oscar De La Renta delivered understated elegance with full midnight black fur skirts, whilst Diane Von Furstenberg crafted beautiful Bohemian coats in eye-popping colours.
Buongiorno my dear followers! Yes, in case you didn’t notice, I’m still in my Italian mood. Lets not lose the momentum people! I told you last week there were still great things to come. So, I thought I would continue talking a little bit more about the rest of the highly creative group that accompanied the Fur Guru in her travels in Milan’s Fashion Week. Ladies first…
PRESS RELEASE (16 February - Hong Kong) —The Hong Kong International Fur & Fashion Fair 16 to 18 February, an annual highlight on the fashion calendar, kicked off today at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. An exceptionally all-rounded range of exhibits, ranging from raw materials to fur apparel and accessories were in the limelight. The total exhibition space reached 30,000 square metres to congregate over 210 local and overseas exhibitors from 13 countries and regions, including two national pavilions from Germany and Greece.
The grand occasion opened with the glamorous Fur Gala 2017. Hong Kong has long been regarded as one of the biggest garment exporters in the world, yet many may not realise that this cosmopolitan in South East Asia also is the largest fur exporter and fur trading centre in the world!
I guess you have noticed by now how this Guru is really into detailed description of things, humans, animals and landscapes, everything that surrounds me. I’m quite generous with my adjectives but this time, I’m struggling a bit to describe this person. I think the best way to depict this crafter is by the things, people and places he reminds me of.
Eggert is like his native Iceland; he carries with him the spirit of this place. One that shifts changes and can be elusive making it, sometimes, quite difficult to see exactly what is there. Nevertheless, he is always friendly and likes to tell stories. And why wouldn’t he if he is a book full of tales? A book about his early years working at sea, his guitar and love for music, his beloved horses, his time in London learning tailoring and his latest work in Saville Road and how later, he has pour all this knowledge and magic into fur.
When you arrive to Iceland, fresh air slaps you in the face and fills your lungs in such a way that you literally have no other option but to open your eyes and heart and be grateful to be alive.
The Viking spirit prevails through their passion and pride of Sagas, poetry and story- telling. Yes, Vikings were mainly labourers, poets and explorers (you didn’t know that, accept it). Oh! And did I forget to mention they were also quite keen on fur? Icelandic people historically and by choice are strong supporters and wearers of fur such as mink (in this particular case, also farmers), fox, coyote and beaver. Really any type of fur! I just mentioned these examples, as they are more on trend right now among the Icelandic, hipster population.
This will be a month dedicated to fashion, starting with NY, continue in London and Milan and ending with haute couture show in Paris. As Fashion Month has just started, we are making a through back to some ”can’t miss” fur creations from last year’s New York Fashion Week fall.
The Opening Ceremony.
The set filled with space-mobiles, they turned out to be part of the Sci-Fi inspirations that included T-shirts sporting designs in a collaboration with Syd Mead, the artist behind the images of the movie Star Trek. Designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have a grip on 21st-century modernism as it segued into futurism. Hence the digital colours, tactile fabrics and an overall sense that tomorrow has arrived. The main theme was further established with an iridescent puff jacket paired with neon orange tron sunglasses, a matching crocodile-stamped velvet jacket and mini skirt styled with over-the-knee-boots in the same pattern.
Riccardo Tisci, exited the french fashion house Givenchy in January 2017 after a 12 year tenure in which he revitalised the brand after the 1995 retirement of founder Hubert de Givenchy. Tisci’s departure was revealed in an exclusive story covered by WWD. His last collections for Givenchy include fall men’s and spring couture exhibited at the National Library of France in Paris on Jan 20. Givenchy is coordinating the production of Tisci’s custom designs for a roster of celebs to appear at the Grammy Awards on Feb 12 and the Academy Awards on Feb 26.
I have always thought that a connection is a difficult thing to find. You have to be extremely lucky to find a person or a group of people in the same place and time that gets you immediately. No explanation required; in the moment you are together, amazing stuff happens. It was while watching a Grateful Dead documentary that I started thinking about this word: connection. Creators of a completely different style of music, they were outcasts that found each other and crafted from scratch the original psychedelic movement in a world that didn’t seem to understand them. Against all odds they succeeded and enchanted the world with their approach to music and life.
This might be the case this year. REMIX 2017 bonds young talents that come from different parts of the planet and still (magically and unexpectedly) have a connection. Together, they will prove what love for fur and fashion can do.
I have always had a soft spot for Humphrey Bogart and the original bad boy look. Heart breakers, deceivers... I have had them all. What makes them so irresistible? The idea of these beautiful outlaws reflects independence and unruliness; they do what they want when they want; they don't follow trends, trends follow them. This kind of men often looks scruffy, but hip; he's not looking for trouble, but there's a sense of danger about him.
Hello world! And welcome to my new blog. Am I nervous? Nah! I have always been up for new things. This is the beginning of a journal that will talk about fashion and about fur, about life-style, designers, catwalks and outstanding pieces. Please excuse me, dear reader, if sometimes it appears quite random but, that’s how life (and my brain) works.
This Valentine’s Day, all you need is love. A little fur wouldn’t be too bad either. Tag us in one of the best mediums to convey emotion - photography. Use the hashtag #iheartfur and enter to win one of three prizes like this Liska mink teddy bear.
Join We Are Fur on Instagram or Facebook and tag @wearefur in an image describing your feelings toward fur.
10 young designers from around the globe have been shortlisted to the REMIX design competition final in Milan. The final judging and winners will be announced at the REMIX final on Friday 24th February during the international fashion week - and the new Uno Milano luxury fashion fair. • Melisa Victoria Higa – Argentina • Iris Alibali – Canada • Yung Xue Song – China • Morten Ussing – Denmark • Nicolas Lecourt Mansion – France • Ólöf Sigríður Jóhannsdóttir - Iceland • Lim Jaeheon - Japan • Aigul Asadullina - Russia • Jeremy Gaillard – Switzerland • Maria Vorobiova - Ukraine
Seals have been politicised for decades now. No matter where you stand on the hunt, there’s no debating the fact that the high profile campaigns of the 70s and 80s, by for-profit groups like Greenpeace and the IFAW (International Fund for Animal Welfare), did very serious damage to the industry, and with it, the families and communities that depend on it.
It was during those times, with the United States introduction of the Marine Mammal Protection Act in 1972, and resulting collapse of the seal market, that Inuk journalist Ossie Michelin tells me his stepfather saw a grown man cry.
“An old Inuk sealer had come to the wharf in Rigolet to sell his pelts, and was informed that new regulations were now in place, and there was no more market for seal pelts. He realised at that moment he could no longer feed his family, and would have to leave his home and get a job in Goose Bay. He had lost everything, and he cried.”
Russian Fur Union (RFU) started to develop a new project on introducing 12-15 year old school students to the fur industry. On the 3rd of December 2016, RFU organised a lecture «Fur Rainbow» conducted by the teachers of Moscow State Veterinary Academy which prepare fur specialists. In a frame work of this lecture students were told about fur as ecological and versatile material that can be used in all seasons of the year. Teachers demonstrated big variety of different fur kinds and talked about their differences. They also talked about main features of fur as a material for tailoring fur garments, let students hold, touch and have a closer look at fur samples and answered many questions.
Hong Kong has long been known as one of the biggest garment exporters in the world, yet many
may not realise that this cosmopolitan in South East Asia also claims the globe’s largest fur
exporter and fur trading centre!
This cheeky accessory brand from New York provides a plethora of stories from North American communities and settlers, which explains each of the names of her products.
Nina Cheng's work comes from personal experience (after the unfortunate smashing of her phone), historic charge and a sense of playfulness that very few brands offer nowadays.
Attention shoppers! Don't mind that violent extremist to your left threatening everyone in the store.
The latest tactic from animal rights activists equates the use of coyote to dog fur.
"STOP WEARING MY DOG!" - the animal rights activists scream.
The protests started with the opening of the brick and mortar store in SoHo, New York City in November 2016. I saw footage online with activists inside the stores picketing sales of coats to customers. How illegal is that? Please don't harass me at the register.
Canada Goose rightfully defends its use of down, calling it “the world’s best insulator.”
Well known for his embroideries on the Milan Fashion Week scene, Fausto Puglisi has been recognized by his daring, metallic, and robust design. This show gave a designer’s collection that wasn’t scared to experiment with new textures and patterns; far away from the glitz and sparkle that gave him fame.
“The unicorn is fierce, strong and swift, and no hunter can catch it. To tame the beast so it can be captured, a virgin girl is placed in its path. The unicorn, seeing the maiden, comes to her and puts its head in her lap and falls asleep. The hunters can then easily capture or kill it.”
The second issue of FrontRow Magazine is out for distribution.
Editor Carlotta Pellizzari introduces the Fall Winter 2016 edition with a quick summary.
She goes on to discuss the cover story about Fendi - the profile behind the brand, an interview with Pietro Beccari, Fendi CEO discussing the immensely successful show at the Trevi Fountain in Rome.
NAFA's Vision 2020 is introduced as an "ambitious four-year plan of fur certification and traceability, which has been introduced as part of the company's Corporate and Social Responsibility Initiative".
Animal rights activists have been banned from protesting outside fur shops in Germany in the run up to Christmas.
In a major blow to their planned campaign of harassment and intimidation, a judge has ruled they must allow shoppers the space and freedom to purchase fur without fear.
The well-known Bogner fashion house was granted the injunction against Deutsches Tierschutzburo, an anti-fur group.
One of the arguments I hear over and over again is that fur is wrong because we are killing animals “for fashion”. Fur’s main purpose is not for fashion and I think it is time to set the record straight about why the majority of us wear fur...
When someone buys something to be fashionable, it is usually an item of clothing – or an accessory – whose life-cycle as a fashionable product is relatively short. That print, silhouette, or shape that is considered fashionable today is probably not going to be so next season or next year. On the other hand, classic clothing could be considered as wardrobe staples that do not follow trends and can be worn for many years. Would you not consider fur to fit into the latter?
The Fashion Committee Spanish Fur Association, formed by the furriers Myriam Buenaventura, Miguel Marinero and Arturo Aguado, and expert journalist in Fashion Clara Courel and consultant in Fashion and Lifestyle David March, have selected three students Fashion design who will represent Spain in the edition of the Remix 2017 Awards, which will take place next February in Milan with a catwalk show of the collections of the 10 finalists chosen by the international Jury.
On November 10th 2016, the Russian Fur Union, with the support of the International Fur Federation (IFF) held the 3rd international young designers competition Eurasia REMIX at Palace Suzora in Saint Petersburg, Russia.
After much discussion, the panel managed to name the top three designers of this year’s competition. The first prize went to Burak Dahan from Turkey who has won the opportunity to take part in an internship at the NAFA design studio in Canada.
Second and third places went to Yerhat Maksutov from Kazakhstan and Liliya Nigmatyanova of Uzbekistan. Both these designers have been awarded internships at the design studios of Saga Furs (Finland) and Kopenhagen Fur (Denmark) respectively.
A master class on the use of modern technologies in the field of design and tailoring of fur products took place at the St. Petersburg State University of Industrial Design and Technology, Russia on the 10th November 2016.
Now I must tell you of another bird which is courteous and beautiful, and which loves much and is much loved. This is the turtledove. The male and the female are always together in mountain or in desert, and if perchance the female loses her companion never more will she cease to mourn for him, never more will she sit upon green branch or leaf. Nothing in the world can induce her to take another mate, but she ever remains loyal to her husband.
International Fur Federation, “IFF”, held the “Asia Remix 2016” for the first time in Tokyo, Japan on October 31st, 2016 with the aim of supporting up-and-coming Asian designers and promoting the development of fur designs, techniques and newest fur trend with the support of the Japan Fur Association. Future Star Design Award went to Ms. Cho Po from Hong Kong, and the Craftsmanship Design Award went to Mr. Hiroshi Suzuki from Japan. Ms. Li Xuan Xuan from China took the title of the Creative Design Award, in addition to reward, Xuan Xuan will also go to Saga Studio in Denmark for one week training, Ms. Natsumi Ikariyama from Japan won the Best Design Award of Male Category (Prize reward and one week training at NAFA studio in Canada. Finally, Mr. Yuki Ando from Japan won the Grand Prize of Female Category
Zuki’s Collections represent in shape, form and material what the beaver and Canada are about. Originally from Beirut, at his arrival to Canada, he got inspired by what was closest to his heart and made use of the plentiful, natural sources of the new country he encountered.
Three decades ago Saga Furs and the House of Dior collaborated to present a milestone -- the first-ever luxury fur fashion show in China. To celebrate the occasion and 30 years’ of efforts in China, Saga Furs held a spectacular fashion show on 1 November in conjunction with Beijing Fashion Week.
WelFur is a new scheme developed to ensure animal welfare is a priority before fur pelts reach the auction houses. The program is entirely voluntary, although the auction houses will not sell furs that are not WelFur certified from 2020 onward. The scientist Jens Malmkvist from Aarhus University in Denmark is one of the scientists developing the new standards in fur farming. The scientists and veterinarians involved in the process are non-biased and unpaid from the fur farms. They are sponsored through the governments.
Animals had been there from the start, even before Adam was created. So for the educated men and women who studied their form, their characters, and their doings, these little pockets of intelligence running across the face of the earth, swimming in the depths of the ocean, and rising in the heavens, were constantly revealing God’s secrets.
I hate dressing formal. It goes back to my days as a member of parliament. There was a strict dress code, and if you wanted to speak in the Chamber a jacket and tie was a must, and the speaker would have thrown you out as fast as he could shout ‘order’ if you strayed from the rules. I hated the various dinners and events that went with the job and the hassle that came with it of dragging around the old black tie in a suit bag on the rubber chicken circuit.
FENDI and Saga Furs in support of young talents for the magic of fur.
Aiming at inspiring design students with the magic of fur as well as conveying the traditional fur skill and craft to the next generation, FENDI and Saga Furs have developed a unique internship experience for young talents to showcase their flair of creativity in fur design.
On the 27th of June 2016, the China Fur Commission of the China Leather Industry Association (otherwise known as CLIA, an IFF member) held a press conference in Beijing to announce the updated standards for farming of fur-bearing animals.
24 September 2016: The International Fur Federation (IFF) has today launched its annual FUR NOW campaign during Milan Fashion Week.
The IFF revealed its latest campaign in collaboration with Vogue Italia – to a large crowd of influential designers and journalists across the fashion industry.
The International Fur Federation (IFF) – in partnership with Vogue Italia – hosted a panel discussion at Milan Fashion Week (24 September) to discuss the future of the fur industry. It was organised as part of the IFF’s Business of Fur initiative, an advisory resource for fashion retailers that also provides information and support regarding the commercial opportunities of selling fur.
We have members in over 40 countries around the world who all do some amazing work: on promoting the fur trade, in improving animal welfare, environmental and employment standards and in the fashion and PR sectors too. It is important to us that we highlight the great work that our members do. This month we got in touch with our Russia members and found out more about their recent activities as well as their favourite fashion trends.
Sander Lak's personal remembrances from his youth are represented in the catwalk with materials such as cotton and nylon in jackets lined with fur worn with silky dresses and gracefully knotted bodices.
MiFur Milan is an annual trade show consisting of 87 Italian exhibitors, 75 foreign exhibitors presenting in four thematic areas while holding a special area for international buyers across the entire supply chain.
Rita Ora wore a slim-fitting leather pencil skirt with an oversized black fur coat to keep her warm for a night’s festivities at Tape nightclub in London. The coat was most likely made of black mink with sectioned off by borders of suede or lambskin.
Michael Kors said he was looking at an individual style this season. A task difficult to achieve for a brand as large scale as his. He delivered his goal through heavy furs, which became playful with colourful flower patterns and bedazzled trousers.
The Fendi show included many types of fur for the Haute Couture collection. Karl Lagerfeld used an array of vibrant earth tones personally reminiscent of a Cinderella cartoon. Dresses had illustrations that included princesses, castles, majestic horses, flowers, and owls embellished with textured rococo.
Jason Wu openly discusses fur. For him, fur is not a political speech, but just another material, like wool or silk, that is a backdrop for his inventiveness. He allows the practical side of fur; its behaviour and characteristics, to dictate the theory of his design.
Biker jackets re- touched with graffiti, studded backpacks, loafers, spray-on leather trousers, a series of slogan inscribed tote bags and a collection of silky printed souvenir jackets (both promising to become the new Coach signature pieces) also looked set to charm customers on both sides of the Atlantic.
This is the case of Grace Wells Bonner; the 23-year-old fashion designer knows very well whom she is and where she is going. A Central Saint Martins graduate, Grace started her label in 2014 after finishing her BA. The British-Jamaican designer soon bagged herself the emerging men's wear designer prize at the British Fashion Awards and was a finalist for the LVMH prize this year becoming first menswear designer to do so.
Data unveiled today shows that 2015 was yet another successful year for the global fur sector – thanks to the continuing demand from fashion and interiors brands for mink, fox, chinchilla and sable among other fur types. Mark Oaten, CEO of the International Fur Federation comments.
International recognition has given labels a prominent reputation in the US, Europe and Asian markets. Experimental and daring, J. W. Anderson makes use of fur for layering, detailing and also as protagonist pieces of his catwalk.
With all of the big-name brands getting their cruise shows underway, we’d be remiss not to start trend forecasting and give our readers the lowdown on which styles to start seeking for the ultimate resort wardrobe. So, what’s on the docket for this year’s summer trends, as told by the most influential names in the fashion industry? We take a look at our favourite Resort 2017 shows over the last few weeks.
It’s Fur Asia right now as we are hosting lectures across Seoul, Tokyo, Nanjing, and Hong Kong. The purpose of our lectures is to discuss opportunities with Fur Futures as well as types of fur as presented by Kopenhagen Furs, Saga Fur and North American Fur Association. We also recruit hundreds of new Fur Futures members for next year as well as catch up with those from the past.
Interested in a Career Working With Fur?
The International Fur Federation is sponsoring applicants from outside Europe interested in the Fur Summer School 2016. The event, which is run by Fur Europe, takes place in Kastoria and Siatista, Greece from 23rd of August to 1st of September 2016. Hurry, apply by the 20th of June!
Jarret, a rising Korean label incorporates an asymmetric relationship between professionalism and the arts. Ji Youn Lee's cuts are contemporary with ragged edge stitches, sleeves that are longer than the arm, and furs bulging over slim figured models. Lee’s use of fur is simple almost as an accessory to the garment. In many looks for both New York and Seoul F/W 2016 fur is either used as patchwork, as misshaped sleeves, or in oversized stoles.
Once, twice a laugh. You would think it was enough to have thrown Kate into the Thames and then having to run to the South of France for cover to evade the authorities in the latest Absolutely Fabulous movie set to be released in July.
This year Alfredo Martinez presents the Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection using fur throughout his designs. He accessorises many dresses with fur stoles as well as incorporating mink into midi dresses. He shows an absolutely over the top shaggy gold fur coat.
This year Shanghai fashion Week awarded Kopenhagen Fur with the best show for their use of traditional Viking regalia. The show was inspired by the heritage of the designer Jim Lyngvild who traced his roots to Vikings.
It’s summer, the weather is warm and fur accents add chic to any girl’s closet. Contrasting patterns, fur pom-poms and a pinch of an era long gone have made Fendi’s Resort collection something to talk about.
In response to the Daily Mail Article on Russian Fur Farming, Mark Oaten, CEO of International Fur Federation says, "I am always 100% in favour of a free, balanced and well-informed press. Sadly, the Daily Mail has once again slipped from those lofty ideals."