Starting as an assistant for Thierry Mugler Couture, Alexandre Vauthier later moved on to Jean Paul Gaultier as head designer for eight years. In 2009, he had his first fashion show in Paris. Since then, Christian Louboutin has designed the shoes for his shows. From 2011 to 2014 Vauthier was a guest member of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture. Since December 2014 he is an official member enabling his fashion house to use the term “haute couture.”
Alexandre Vauthier takes camouflage to a new level. This model wore an army green short length coat with oversize black silver fox trim. The outfit was finished off with a large metallic green bow.
Vauthier also featured a full-length gold fox coat with over the knee boots.
Founded in Paris in 1870 by Joseph Breitman, J Mendel is a family owned business. At the time, Joseph Breitman was a furrier to the Russian aristocracy. Five generations later, Gilles Mendel acts as CEO and head designer of the New York based label.
The opening looks were of on an invisible chiffon dress embroidered with sheared fur tiles in a mosaic. The dress was finished with tiny crystals. There were also midi length fitted fox coats with extra long sleeves that were perfect for eveningwear.
Julien Fournie started his career after winning the Moet & Chandon Prize for best accessories at his graduation in Paris. He gained experience working with several of the leading designers including Christian Dior, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Torrent before creating his own label. He has been given the guest member status to participate in Haute Couture Paris.
In a very formal full-length evening gown, the model walked down the runway. She wore a tweed overcoat and mixed length fur stole. The colour palette included complementary shades of midnight blue.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture AW16-17 is about making something primitive look modern. His style is natural, as his garments seem to work into the wood plank runway. His use of leather in the footwear, the fur in the oversized coats that slouch over sheer skirts, and an almost monochromatic colour palette play with surrealism. JPG infuses the texture of a Karakul fur jacket with a wavy haired girl in the same burnt sienna colour scheme. A piece of art she is.
John Galliano fuses new wave and bohemian culture with classic French couture. Maison Margiela really stands out in the crowd. She wears asymmetric cuts, wavy edges, funky hairstyles and bright makeup. Her oversized woollen socks hang over her Birkenstock-type sandals. Fur is used as an accent creating a textured affect adding to the asymmetries of each outfit.